思考汤(在记忆吉娜·帕玛)

骨肉汤画廊7英雄/照片由Chelsea Kyle,亚历克斯布兰尼亚的道具造型,罗达邦的食品造型

骨肉汤画廊7英雄/照片由Chelsea Kyle,亚历克斯布兰尼亚的道具造型,罗达邦的食品造型

On New Year’s Day, I didn’t eat a salad, I didn’t hop on a treadmill, I didn’t write the annual letter to myself that I’ve been writing since I read about doing that in some magazine half a decade ago. This year, I grabbed the giant stock pot that sits on top of my oven and put it on the stove. Out of the freezer I pulled a bag of chicken backs that I cut off of chickens in 2015 and dumped them into the humongous vessel along with a whole onion, a whole carrot, a head of garlic cut in half, some bay leaves, peppercorns, and a handful of parsley leaves. I filled it all the way up with water (at least two gallons), turned the heat up to medium, waited for it all to come to a simmer, then turned it to low. Every so often, I’d skim, but for the next eight hours, I just let the chicken stock perk away.

与此同时,我从巨大的白豆带上了兰乔戈多(which I’d been soaking since the night before: yes, I thought to do that before going out on New Year’s Eve), drained them, and added them to a separate pot with a carrot, half a yellow onion, a garlic clove, a bay leaf, and enough cold water to cover. Up the heat went, then down to a simmer, and suddenly my kitchen was a regular soup factory: enough stock to make soup for weeks, and enough beans to make several different kinds of soup.

自从上周听到这个消息以来,汤一直在我的脑海里庆祝的糕点厨师吉娜·帕玛在49岁时通过了卵巢癌。五年前,当她同意和我一起做饭时,我在吉娜见过我的食谱。她邀请我和我的摄影师,Elizabeth leitzell.从克里斯特队附近的公寓,迎接我们像老朋友一样,立即为我们提供冰茶,并在我们甚至开始烹饪之前与我们一起坐下来。

She quickly opened up about her cancer, which she’d been battling ever since returning from Rome just after winning her James Beard Award in 2009. With a finger, she drew a line down her chest, showing us how they’d cut her open to remove an enormous tumor, telling us how she spent most of her time recovering watching old Lidia Bastianich episodes on TV while eating soup that her mother made for her–a soup that she then eagerly taught me how to make.

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[照片Creder elizabeth leitzell]

那种汤,我经常引用我在超过150多家食谱的书中获得的食谱,是一个188bet现在在哪儿下扁豆汤用香肠和chard(斑点旁边的厨房)那doesn’t sound like much when you look at the ingredients–sausage, onions, garlic, celery, lentils–but which Gina, channeling her mother, coaxed into such a flavorful concoction, it’s a casebook study in what it means to cook with love. I know that’s cliché, but here’s what that really means in the non-clichéd sense: it means that, at the beginning, Gina sorted through the dried lentils, making sure there weren’t any stones in there. It means that she seasoned at every step, used good quality tomatoes, diced things carefully so they’d look nice when the soup was done. It means that instead of just serving the soup as it was, Gina took the extra step at the end of sautéing sliced garlic in olive oil and stirring that into the hot soup so that it all got infused with garlic flavor. And, as a final gesture, it meant grating really good Pecorino on top of the soup just before serving it. These aren’t the moves of someone who wanted you to have a “just OK” soup experience; these are the moves of someone who wanted you to have an experience that you’d always remember. These are the moves of someone who wanted to hug you with soup.

和汤拥抱是我生命中吉娜的感受。在食谱出来后,我们保持联系。两次前往纽约前的旅行,我们在西村的Bosie茶厅喝了咖啡和糕点。她谈到了持续她的化疗,将她的工作留在Babbo,这是她刚刚完成的第二张食谱。她的声音中有希望,也有恐惧。她真的不知道如何与她的癌症一起去。但她真的很充满生命,在那个小桌子上,闲聊了关于餐厅行业的人(对不起,我的嘴唇是密封的),只是盛大的旧时间。除了活着之外,不可能将她视为其他任何东西。

而且,也许是因为这一点,我没有跟进吉娜,就像我应该一样,在那之后,这是我应该拥有的那样。当然,我们彼此来回推文。我们经常经常交换快速电子邮件。但我从未想过真的在和她一起检查,看看她是如何做的,特别是当她在结束时得到如此安静。但是,吉娜的角色是吉娜的角色,当我去年三月陷入困境时食谱评论冒犯了相当多的人,她花了时间在电子邮件中给我写信:

我想说我只是崇拜你。你有这么多的诚信,是个好人。你总是让我笑,或者至少广泛笑容。你总是让这个食物世界最近扭曲了我,一个更明亮,更周到的地方......似乎是正确的时间说这个。所以你走了。

想象一下,一个人经历了Gina正在进行的时间,花时间走向一个正在经历最小的小事的人(以及他几乎带给自己的人)。不用说,那个姿态意味着这么多;当我需要提升时,它在一瞬间提升了我。就像一碗好汤。

这就是为什么,在新的一年,我做了汤。它很多。我现在在冰箱里有几个Tupperware容器的鸡汤,以及一批面食Fagioli剩下的冰箱。我们在2016年的第一天吃汤,我想到了吉娜,关于她留下的遗产:Babbo Dessert菜单上的标志性食谱,188bet现在在哪儿下一个必不可少的意大利甜点食谱每个人都应该在他们的厨房里,最重要的是,当他们被击倒并滋养它们时,一对一的精神 - 直到他们觉得自己再次感受到了。你可以用食物做的事实,让人感情地做到,是我将永远信任吉娜代帕尔马的教训。